varansi

from delhi, we took an overnight train to varanasi. located along the banks of the ganges, varanasi is one of the world's oldest continually inhabited cities. it is also one of the holiest cities in hinduism. a series of ghats (=steps leading down to the water) runs along the river for several kilometers. some of these are "burning ghats" where bodies are cremated, and the ashes are then put into the ganges. hindus regard it as particularly auspicious to have one's ashes put into the river at varanasi. they also place the corpses of dead cows into the river, and i saw several bloated and skinless cow corpses floating along.

many of the citizens of varanasi also bathe in the ganges, and they brush their teeth with its water. they cool their water buffalo in the river, and they play cricket on the ghats. they say morning and evening prayers in the river, and they use its water to make their morning tea (which i quite enjoyed, and, for five rupees, was very affordable).

along the ghats sit many sadhus (hindu ascetics or holy men), and there are nightly religious services performed at the main ghat. the city also attracts quite a number of dread-locked youth from europe and america. boatmen line the river. for a hundred rupees (=two dollars) they will row tourists out for a pleasant trip and good views of the city.